our latest trip took us to Sauzalito, scene of a multitudinous celebration on the thrid anniversary of the death of much revered local leader Mario Marino. (This involved travelling south to the river Bermejo,through sand and treacherous mud, crossing the river in a rickety boat in intense heat – it was almost pitch dark too by the time we arrived, but the festivities made up for it!)
tomorrow 25th nov marks 30 years since my ordination as deacon at hands of said bishop Mario. Who’d have thought I would now be taking up the baton and following his footsteps?
2 anniversaries
burying the bishop
What does the first week of life as a bishop look like? Well, aside from much relieved well-wishing and lists of requests, the outstanding features have been:
Practicalities – In one day the bathroom door fell off, the shower came away from the wall, and loo became blocked. On another both of us needed emergency dental treatment for teeth possibly dislodged by the heat (which has been in the 50s)! And the smell coming from a rolled piece of carpet urned out to be a foot-long dead lizard.The business of getting started when so much is dysfunctional is challenging to say the least.
Pastoralia – one outstanding feature in a pastoral trip full of memorable encounters was the task of burying a predecessor. Bill Flagg was the first bishop here in the 70s, and his family asked for his ashes to be buried at Mision Chaquena, the site of the first Anglican Mission in these parts. Very moving ceremony (conducted by Pat Harris, another predecessor!)
Politics – articles appear in the press, fuelled by feuding within the government, and the greed of deforesters, which accuse church organisations (including ours) of discriminating against the Indians. The truth is exactly the opposite, but it causes unease.
once more unto the breach dear friends
October 24th 2009 Nick consecrated suffragan bishop of Northern Argentina in the presence of Indian priests and believers from all over the Argentina Chaco, plus visitors and distinguished guests from all over the world.
Songs and prayers in local languages, and a strong commission from “retired” (but not retiring) bishop Pat Harris from Titus 1, to administer the things of God, be hospitable for people, and hold on to the word of God.
Previously there had been a bishops’ retreat and Provincial meeting at which there was a strong sense of a new moment for the Latin American church (with reps from Argentina Chile Peru Paraguay, Uruguay and Cuba)– no longer strongly supported or led by missionaries, and with a new relationship to the mission agencies.
We tried in vain to find a suitable saint to celebrate for the consecration, but were intrigued to realize that this is the eve of Sts Crispin and Crispinian. To quote Prince Hal:
“He that shall live this day, and see old age,
Will yearly on the vigil feast his neighbours,
And say ‘To-morrow is Saint Crispian.’
Then will he strip his sleeve and show his scars,
And say ‘These wounds I had on Crispian’s day.’
…And Crispin Crispian shall ne’er go by,
From this day to the ending of the world,
But we in it shall be remembered-
We few, we happy few, we band of brothers;
For he to-day that sheds his blood with me
Shall be my brother; be he ne’er so vile,
This day shall gentle his condition;
And gentlemen in England now-a-bed
Shall think themselves accurs’d they were not here,
And hold their manhoods cheap whiles any speaks
That fought with us upon Saint Crispin’s day.”
from Shakespeare’s Henry V
Make of that what you will!
walking with condors (and motorbikes)
Nick writes: October 12th is remembered here as the day Columbus “discovered” the Americas – a dubious celebration but a holiday. I was invited by three friends, all involved in frontline ministry on behalf of Indian rights, to walk in the foothills of the Andes near Salta.
Our “walk” involved climbing from 2000 to 3300 metres (about 11000 ft) and camping overnight near the top of Los Planchones. Hard slog but beautiful scenery, thin air, peace and quiet, but we hadn’t bargained on the wind! Against us in both directions, and whipping down the valley where we camped. In fact blew the tents over during the night, so we had to shelter by a shepherd’s hut.
Accompanied most of the way by condors, at one point 7 like the Nazgul, huge black shapes against the blue sky and grey mountains, and sometimes other birds of prey, as well as the giant hummingbird which feeds in one particular patch of mountain where there are flowers.
What we didn’t expect was to be overtaken by motorbikes! Motocross reaching even the highest peaks where there are amazingly long scree slopes, where llamas and donkeys are used as horses get blown off the mountain. (Fortunately for us it was too windy for the bikes as well, so we had peace again between the gusts of wind).
Now back to the city, and sorting out documents and furniture whilst we wait for our luggage to arrive and the move to our new home in Juarez.
ingeniero juarez
Catherine writes: it is unbelievable to think that we have been here in argentina for only 10 days, feels a lot longer to be honest! we travelled to Juarez on the bus on sunday after a very encouraging service at san andres here in salta. it was great to see so many familiar faces… and so many new ones too. A quick lunch with graciela and patricia and then on to the “flecha” bus which took some 10 hours to get to its destination….fortunately being sunday there were no pickets, but there were several long waits as the “gendarmeria” inspected bag luggage and ID cards….the driver also had a good long stop for his tea….
arrived safely, and met by rene and marina (our neighbours) in sweltering heat, even at 1 am! a quick walk into the town reminded us that 45 degrees heat is not easy to cope with, so made a hasty retreat back to the house.
for those of you not yet initiated into the joys of juarez, it is a railway town (where the railway no longer works) of approx 10,000 residents, the majority are indigenous ( why we are living there) and the rest criollo. there are a few shops( apart from the meat, fruit, veg shops) which all seem to sell the same things….mops, buckets, bright coloured skirts, brightly coloured children’s clothes and plastic toys, thermos flasks and lighters…. juarez also boasts several primary and secondary schools, hospital, town hall and police and many stationary shops with photocopy machines which is an essential item of every day life.
we again did “tramites”, but this time we were defeated by them, despite 2 visits to the police and several visits to the registry office ..to update our driving licences, everything takes very long and offices close at 11.30am. It is one of the few places that I have visited recently where they still use typewriters and carbon paper, and all documents are stored in dusty books….. while being attended by a very charming police officer, we couldn’t help noticing in the police station the riot shields and helmets ( happily) gathering dust, fortunately not a lot of riots in juarez these days.
the other impression was that of eternal queues, well apart from queues at every office, 100’s of people with their families sleeping outside the bank to be in the queue the next morning to collect their monthly benefits….(usually less than $200) , many would have to queue for hours and hours in the blazing sun…. also to be attended by a Dr at the hospital you have to ’sacar turno’ ( get your appointment) by queuing at 5 am…..Drs then start consultations at 9am!
So, its a very, very different life style….am asking God for a love of the place and people…it doesn’t come too naturally to me…while waiting in a queue somewhere I read these words from a celtic prayer “may i see the face of christ in everyone i meet, may everyone i meet, see the face of christ in me “….what a challenge.
oops, forgot to tell you about the house….check out the photos, rene has done an amazing job of renovation of the property, and yes we do have electricity, running water, a fridge/freezer, flushing toilet and shower….there is still a fair amount to be done, such as mosquito netting etc. we are in salta to purchase all the necessary clobber to furnish the house adequately.
the house is now rather larger than before, so we have the bonus of being creative with the space, and pray we shall find the best way to use it and make it home for us and welcome refuge to others…our stuff is still in BA at customs, we are hoping to receive that soon and be able to start making the place home. till then we are enjoying the cooler weather here in salta and visiting friends and colleagues.
from a small island to a huge continent
well here we are, back again for a new chapter in this story. after the comforting compactness of the islands we cast out into the vast new world which is now to be our home.
first stop buenos aires. and the first day, inevitably, was taken up with “tramites” (an untranslatable word which sums up the heart of latin american culture and means something like interminable standing in queues in different offices for beaurocratic procedures and paperwork in order to be able to get on with the real business of living). Well we weren´t defeated by that, but almost were by the enormous steaks served at our first meal!
buenos aires must be the smartest capital in the world, where people still proudly wear leather and furs, hug despite swine flu, and are immensely fast moving but still have time to talk to each other (and strangers).
we travelled on buses and trains at very little cost, and enjoyed coffee and tango, as well as doing the business we were there for (which was to see our boxes through customs – so far so good).
We are now in Salta, where they should arrve in due course. Catherine celebrated her birthday, and was surprised by the office staff producing sandwiches, coke and cake at the drop of a hat. It´s good to be back with our loving team of hardworking argentines. Nick is beginning to get an idea of what he’s in for!
on giants’ shoulders
enjoying a few black and white photos, and we have some mementos of past eras. nearly 100 years ago and anglican missionaries took good news to our chaco friends, and the effect down the decades has been startling in its simplicity and dignity. there are giants among them, both english and wichi. it is a story of dust, sweat and grace!
but today not many want to look back, although the future does not seem very bright. indian youth is finding its own way, and the forest is threatened with destruction. we all pray for kingdom come, and part of this is God’s chaco church.
but there is still inspiration in the forefathers, and we are very conscious of taking up their mantle. maybe true perspective comes from this poem by r.s.thomas
“I have seen the sun break through
to illuminate a small field
for a while, and gone my way
and forgotten it.
But that was the pearl
of great price, the one field that had
the treasure in it. I realize now
that I must give all that I have
to posess it.
Life is not hurrying
on to a receding future,
nor hankering after
an imagined past.
It is the turning
aside like Moses to the miracle
of the lit bush, to a brightness
that seemed as transitory
as your youth
once,
but is the eternity that
awaits you.”
[The Bright Field]
clifftop wedding
one of the privileges of being the ordained uncle is a i get to do family weddings. and what a setting for matt and suzanne’s – atop petit port with views of jersey in the distance. and what a talented crowd of musicians and others (all looking lovely!). first time i’ve used dylan as a text: wedding song
It’s never been my duty to remake the world at large
Nor is it my intention to sound a battle charge
Cause I love you more than all of that with a love that doesn’t bend
And if there is eternity I’ll love you there again.
the long goodbye
a month since our farewell service, eight months since we announced we were leaving and sixteen months since we were invited to leave we have finally left beverley! how long does it take to find homes for furniture and other belongings, to pack some boxes to send by boat, to store others, to put what we need now into the car, and to throw the rest away? all of that time and longer it seems! anyway, giving stuff away got easier – “how very franciscan” someone said. we’ve said more than a few good byes as well. all nick’s family gathered one weekend, and a couple of days earlier a team ran the 10k and raised £1300 for the indians.amazing what a variety of wonderful people you get to know in 9 years. Jesus said “I will not leave you orphaned” – it does feel a bit like leaving children in some cases, but others call to be parented now.
indian spirituality
so what challenges await us in less than three months’ time as we move to the reality of chaco life? well apart from the dust, heat, economic and hygienic uncertainties, language difficulties, devastation of the forest, political corruption, social division, the “concern of all the churches” and missing our family (and assuming we survive the rigours of the next three months getting packed up) – the main talking point throughout the indian communities seems to be “el avivamiento” (the revival). well, that sounds good!
an anthropologist friend commented to us recently:”it makes a nice change to be talking about theology rather than land rights!” so what’s caused this? it seems there is a movement sweeping the area which involves lots of dancing and singing usually at night and usually outside the church, gathering huge crowds of mainly young people. apart from the usual phenomena of loud prayer and some falling over, there seems to be a lot of emphasis on testimony and prophecy but very little on preaching or teaching. there have been some notable conversions and stories of real life change, and most parents are thrilled their youth are at these meetings rather than drinking or whatever. however church leaders are cautious and often worried by the conflicting demands of the prophets, who don’t seem to come under any authority. there is obviously much debate, and most village communities are affected in some way.
this will clearly be a major topic of conversation, and we expect to be asked what we think. “by their fruits you shall know them” springs to mind, as well as “do not put out the Spirit’s fire, do not treat prophecies with contempt, teste everything, hold onto the good, avoid every kind of evil”.
my main question will be how prophecy works at this wider level, and how to discern between shamanism and genuine words from God when there is a polarisation bewteen the “spiritual” and the “biblical”. these are important days for the indian church.
my other question would be “what does this all mean in terms of indian spirituality?” what do they think they are doing? it may be something very different from what it looks like to westerners.
